1 Door Upper Left Blind

1 Door Upper Left Blind

Upper Width

This is the overall, outside width of the cabinet box.

(500 - 1220)

Upper Height

This is the overall height of the cabinet box.

(300 - 1550)

Upper Depth

This is the depth of the cabinet carcass, not including any doors.

(200 - 770)

Adjustable Shelves

These are moveable shelves that sit on metal shelf pins. The metal shelf pins also insert into the shelf itself to prevent it from any sliding around.

(0 - 5)

Right Panel


Panels are used to cover the exposed sides of cabinet boxes, ensuring they match the color of the cabinet doors.

Adding a Right panel inside this product will automatically adjust the “Right Reveal” to 3mm for proper spacing.

The panel size will be the overall height of the cabinet, and the depth of the cabinet plus the thickness of the door/drawer front so it will be flush on the front.

(Disregard the door/drawer configuration and cabinet type shown in the image below, your product may be different, but the panels work the same as described here)

If you require a special sized panel that differs from this size, you can use the Panel product on the Accessories page.

Just remember to adjust your door reveals accordingly.

Blind Door Opening Width

Blind door opening width is the distance from the edge of the blind panel to the inside of the gable. Door width is not used as the measurement because the door width can vary on the same opening size depending on the door reveal.

Door width = Blind Door Opening Width + 19 – 1.5 – Right Reveal (or Left Reveal if it’s a Right Blind)

Use these images to understand the sizing of the parts in relation to the opening size.

(250 - 600)

Right Reveal

This is the amount of gap there is from the right side of the carcass to the the edge of the door/drawer front.

Typically this is 1.5mm, so that when you put two cabinets beside each other, the gaps from both cabinets add up to 3mm, which is standard clearance.

If you are putting a flush filler or panel on the right side of this cabinet, you should change it to 3mm, to maintain proper clearance.

(0 - 11)

Top Reveal

This is the amount of gap that there is from the top of the carcass to the edge of the door or drawer face.

On base cabients, top gaps are usually 6mm so there is clearance for the countertop.

On upper and tall cabinets, top gaps are typically 0mm (flush with top), unless you are putting a flush filler piece or panel above the cabinet, in which case you should change it to 3mm.

If you are stacking cabinets, you want to make sure you have a 3mm gap from one cabinet’s doors, to the others. General recommendation is splitting the gap on each cabinet. This would mean a 1.5mm Bottom Reveal on the top cabinet, and a 1.5mm Top Reveal, on the bottom cabinet. This will ensure proper door gaps.

(-60 - 11)

Bottom Reveal

This is the amount of gap that there is from the bottom of the carcass to the edge of the door or drawer face.

Bottom gaps are typically 0mm (flush with bottom), unless you are putting a flush valance piece or panel under the cabinet, in which case you should change it to 3mm.

If you are stacking cabinets, you want to make sure you have a 3mm gap from one cabinet’s doors, to the others. General recommendation is splitting the gap on each cabinet. This would mean a 1.5mm Bottom Reveal on the top cabinet, and a 1.5mm Top Reveal, on the bottom cabinet. This will ensure proper door gaps.

(-60 - 11)
(2 - 350)

Personalized Labels

Putting a name or number in this spot will help you organize your cabinets and products in a way that makes sense for you and your project.

This text will come through on the product sticker that gets put on the back of every cabinet that is produced in our shop, and will save you time from trying to figure out which cabinets are which.

Here are some examples of the product label, with the personalized label in use. Try to limit your personalized label to a few words, or the last bit of text may get cut off of the label if it is too long.

$258.69

Quantity

Unit conversion

Input length in inches for its value in millimeters.
Inches:
/
Inches:
Millimeters:
To convert from inches (in) to millimeters (mm), simply use the following formula:
millimeters = inches × 25.4

This is because one inch is equivalent to 25.4 millimeters. Therefore, by multiplying the number of inches by 25.4, you can determine its corresponding length in millimeters.
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