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Width

This is the overall, outside width of the cabinet box.

Height

This is the height Above Finished Floor (A.F.F.), meaning this includes the Toe Kick Height.

The cabinet box height will Height – Toe Kick Height, as shown below being 774mm. You can adjust Toe Kick Height if you turn off Adjustable Legs.

For instance: If you turn off Adjustable Legs and set Toe Kick Height to 0, your carcass height would then equal the full Height.

Depth

This is the depth of the cabinet carcass.

This does not include the thickness of any door or drawer fronts.

Left Panel

Panels are used to cover the exposed sides of cabinet boxes, ensuring they match the color of the cabinet doors.

Adding a left panel inside this product will automatically adjust the “Left Reveal” to 3mm for proper spacing.

The panel size will be the overall height of the cabinet, and the depth of the cabinet plus the thickness of the door/drawer front, and the small gap, so it will be flush on the front.

(Disregard the door/drawer configuration and cabinet type shown in the image below, your product may be different, but the panels work the same as described here)

If you require a special sized panel that differs from this size, you can use the Panel product on the Accessories page.

Just remember to adjust your door reveals accordingly.

Right Panel


Panels are used to cover the exposed sides of cabinet boxes, ensuring they match the color of the cabinet doors.

Adding a Right panel inside this product will automatically adjust the “Right Reveal” to 3mm for proper spacing.

The panel size will be the overall height of the cabinet, and the depth of the cabinet plus the thickness of the door/drawer front so it will be flush on the front.

(Disregard the door/drawer configuration and cabinet type shown in the image below, your product may be different, but the panels work the same as described here)

If you require a special sized panel that differs from this size, you can use the Panel product on the Accessories page.

Just remember to adjust your door reveals accordingly.

Top Drawer Front Height

Adjusting this will automatically adjust the doors or drawers below to equally fill out the rest of the front of the cabinet.

If “Equal Drawer Heights”, on select products, is checked, then this value will be ignored, and all the drawer fronts will be made the same size.

Toe Kick Height

Toe kick height is always subtracted off of the overall height you enter to calculate cabinet height.

This is adjustable only if you turn off Leg Levelers. By making this number smaller, the cabinet will get taller by the bottom getting closer to the ground. Making it larger will shrink the cabinet by raising the to bottom further away from the floor.

Leg Levelers

Having this option turned on will give adjustable leg levelers for the bottom of the cabinet. These are 102mm (4″) legs, with a total range between 90mm and 120mm of height, which allows for unlevel floor situations.

Toe kicks can clip on to these legs with the hardware provided by us by default.

Toe kick can also be pin nailed to the leg socket during cabinet install, in leu of using the provided clips if preferred.

Turning leg levelers off allows you to change to toe kick height, which in turn adjusts the height of the cabinet box from the bottom. Smaller toe kick height means taller box, larger to kick space means smaller box.

Toe kick height is always subtracted off of the overall height that you enter to leave you with your final carcass size.

Please remember to order your toe kick strips from the Accessories page.

Left Reveal

This is the amount of gap there is from the left side of the carcass to the the edge of the door/drawer front.

Typically this is 1.5mm, so that when you put two cabinets beside each other, the gaps from both cabinets add up to 3mm, which is standard clearance.

If you are putting a flush filler or panel on the left side of this cabinet, you should change it to 3mm, to maintain proper clearance.

Right Reveal

This is the amount of gap there is from the right side of the carcass to the the edge of the door/drawer front.

Typically this is 1.5mm, so that when you put two cabinets beside each other, the gaps from both cabinets add up to 3mm, which is standard clearance.

If you are putting a flush filler or panel on the right side of this cabinet, you should change it to 3mm, to maintain proper clearance.

Top Reveal

This is the amount of gap that there is from the top of the carcass to the edge of the door or drawer face.

On base cabients, top gaps are usually 6mm so there is clearance for the countertop.

On upper and tall cabinets, top gaps are typically 0mm (flush with top), unless you are putting a flush filler piece or panel above the cabinet, in which case you should change it to 3mm.

If you are stacking cabinets, you want to make sure you have a 3mm gap from one cabinet’s doors, to the others. General recommendation is splitting the gap on each cabinet. This would mean a 1.5mm Bottom Reveal on the top cabinet, and a 1.5mm Top Reveal, on the bottom cabinet. This will ensure proper door gaps.

Bottom Reveal

This is the amount of gap that there is from the bottom of the carcass to the edge of the door or drawer face.

Bottom gaps are typically 0mm (flush with bottom), unless you are putting a flush valance piece or panel under the cabinet, in which case you should change it to 3mm.

If you are stacking cabinets, you want to make sure you have a 3mm gap from one cabinet’s doors, to the others. General recommendation is splitting the gap on each cabinet. This would mean a 1.5mm Bottom Reveal on the top cabinet, and a 1.5mm Top Reveal, on the bottom cabinet. This will ensure proper door gaps.

Left Finished Legs

This will change and move the adjustable legs to accommodate a toe kick strip to return to the wall on the left side of the cabinet. Find the return strip in Accessories.

Right Finished Legs

This will change and move the adjustable legs to accommodate a toe kick strip to return to the wall on the right side of the cabinet. Find the return strip in Accessories.

Select Adjustable Width

In a 2 Section cabinet, this allows you to choose either section to modify to a custom width, and the other section will adjust automatically to fill the rest of the space.

In a 3 Section cabinet, this allows you to adjust any 1, or any 2 section widths, and the remaining section(s) will adjust automatically to fill the rest of the space.

Left Section Width

This is the distance from the outside of the left gable, to the center of the closest divider to the right.

In this image, it is 300mm.

(Disregard the image’s door/drawer layout, the product you are in may differ from image shown)

This opening size is smaller than this measurement by 28.5mm (1 1/8″). This is because this Section includes the thickness of the left gable (19mm), and half of the first divider (9.5mm).

Right Section Width

This is the distance from the outside of the right gable, to the center of the closest divider to the left.

In this image, it is 400mm.

(Disregard the image’s door/drawer layout, the product you are in may differ from image shown)

This opening size is smaller than this measurement by 28.5mm (1 1/8″). This is because this Section includes the thickness of the right gable (19mm), and half of the closest divider (9.5mm).

Personalized Labels

Putting a name or number in this spot will help you organize your cabinets and products in a way that makes sense for you and your project.

This text will come through on the product sticker that gets put on the back of every cabinet that is produced in our shop, and will save you time from trying to figure out which cabinets are which.

Here are some examples of the product label, with the personalized label in use. Try to limit your personalized label to a few words, or the last bit of text may get cut off of the label if it is too long.

$531.60

Quantity

Unit conversion

Input length in inches for its value in millimeters.
Inches:
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Inches:
Millimeters:
To convert from inches (in) to millimeters (mm), simply use the following formula:
millimeters = inches × 25.4

This is because one inch is equivalent to 25.4 millimeters. Therefore, by multiplying the number of inches by 25.4, you can determine its corresponding length in millimeters.
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